Review: Beauty Bar Baby

No parabens, sulfates, talc, preservatives, fragrances, dyes or fillers.  Almost 400 items to choose from.  Various sizes and prices on products with 5 gram shadow pots as low as $3... I could go on and on and all of these rave reviews are about one shop offering cruelty-free and vegan makeup: Beauty Bar Baby.  I was in awe over the variety and, of course, purchased plenty for sampling.  I've split the review into two parts, eyes and lips.  I have so many lovely photos to share, let's get to it!

The Eyes:

BBB offers an overwhelming range of shades and formulas from duo chromes to glitters to matte finish eye shadows. Below are some swatches for your viewing pleasure:

From left to right, $3 each for 5 gram pots: 'Lectric Pink (glitter) over Sephora's glitter primer, Enchantress (matte) on bare skin, Santa's Suit (duo chrome) on bare skin, and That's Really Bananas! (duo chrome) on bare skin. 

The glitter, like other formulas, does not adhere to skin without some type of primer or adhesive.  Beauty Bar Baby's is a bit different, however.  It appears to be a glitter/pigment hybrid so you're getting an extra bump in color with the glitz of your traditional glitter. 

The above is an eye look utilizing the 'Lectric Pink glitter.  It is far more sparkly in person; it's tough to capture glitter in a photograph.

Enchantress is a lovely, gray based lilac.  Santa's Suit is my favorite of the bunch, a red/gold/green shift with more sparkle then most duo chromes I've come across in the market.  That's Really Banana's is a true yellow to iridescent shift that is surprisingly wearable.  I used it in the look below:

The Lips:

Under the luscious lips category, BBB offers more formulas than colors, and that's just fine by me.  I had to have a lip balm in Pumpkin Spice ($2.75); it's smooth and silky and the fragrance is the finest I have come across in handmade lip balms.  Below are swatches of the lipstick and Lip Potions I got my hands on:

From top to bottom ($6 each): Unicorn Kisses lipstick in Princess Candace, Lip Potion in Stroke of Midnight, and Lip Potion in Ritualistic.  Below are some swatches on the lips for another look at these goodies:

A look using Princess Candace semi-matte lipstick.  This stuff is like butter!  It is smooth and opaque and is the consistency of melted lipstick in a tube.  It is best applied with a brush even though packaged in a lip balm tube.  If you want opaque coverage that is mostly a matte finish without all the dryness, this is the formula for you. 

Above is Stroke of Midnight.  It is packaged in a 5 gram pot and requires a brush to apply it.  It is a very thick, very pigmented gloss texture that can work as a sheer wash of color, or become opaque with a heavier application.  It's a glossy finish, as well.  Same applies for Ritualistic, below:

The Pros:

Everything was priced below $10, and at just $3 for eye shadow pots, you can afford some fun, fashion forward colors you may otherwise pass up if you're on a budget.  The eye shadows - particularly the duo chromes - have more sparkle to them then I am accustom to and I love them.  They are absolutely beautiful and I have found no sparkle to compare as yet.  Princess Candace, from the Unicorn Kisses collection, feels amazing on and that is rare for matte finish lipsticks.  I am terribly impressed with the Lip Potions too, as you can wear them in many different ways.  I swatched them heavily in the photos, but they can be used as a light gloss, or added to a lip balm, the possibilities are endless.  

The Cons:

If you plan on achieving full coverage with the Lip Potions, you'll likely need a similarly colored base lipstick or it can look splotchy.  Without lip liner, the Lip Potions also tend to bleed.  It takes some doing, but they're wonderful and easy to use if you apply a sheer coat.  

Bonus Information:

Overall, I am very pleased with everything I purchased and, if you are reading this now (September 23, 2014) I urge you to rush on over to Beauty Bar Baby's shop because the seller is offering a limited edition Halloween collection!  It is available for pre-order now and is $23 and filled with tons of goodies.  Did I mention it is packaged in an adorable wooden coffin?  I know I'm excited about it!

Review: Lime Crime

If you're a fan of indies, then you've likely heard of their darling: Lime Crime.  You've also probably read the good, the bad, and the ugly surrounding Lime Crime's founder, Doe Deere.  I, personally, am only concerned about makeup and sharing my opinion on the products.  So, let's just stick to that, shall we?  Lime Crime is a cruelty-free and vegan brand that most people know for their lip products.  However, they offer several palettes in the adorable tin packaging pictured above.  I chose Alchemy, a shimmery duo-chrome lineup that is perfect for building up a solid lineup of autumn colors.

Above I've swatched the Alchemy palette collection of pressed eye shadows.  Whenever I swatch, I use an ordinary eye shadow sponge and do one swipe across dry skin; no primer or lotion of any kind beneath.  I photograph the swatches in natural light (whenever possible) and don't filter the finished photo.  The colors from top to bottom:  Divination, Spellbound, Love Potion No9, Lucky Charm, and Incantation.

My two favorites, Divination, a brilliant, blue-based teal, and Love Potion No9, a dreamy lavender, are peacock-feather perfection, while the curious but wearable additions of Lucky Charm, a grass green shimmer, and Incantation, the color of a pumpkin spice latte or a burnt bronze/orange shift, remind me of an autumnal pumpkin patch.  Spellbound is a classic, blendable highlighter that works wonders in tying all of these shades together. 

A look I did utilizing ALL of the colors from the Alchemy palette.  I am also wearing Lime Crime's opaque lipstick in Coquette.  

A close up look at the above; I used Spellbound along my brow bone, with Love Potion No9 in the crease.  Lucky Charm is the true green on my lid with Incantation along my upper lashes.  The lower liner is Divination.

The Pros:

I love a palette that combines unusual colors one wouldn't normally include in the same collection.  As my makeup collection grows, I find myself seeking out the unique.  This is definitely it.  I didn't really have colors like these in my makeup bag.  The colors are vibrant but the formula is soft enough that it blends well.  You can layer this stuff on there for extremely vivid looks, or, like I did, blend it out for a wash of color.  I was pleased that the pressed cakes didn't turn to loose powder fall-out immediately upon use, as some tend to do.  The packaging is adorable and functional; it's just large enough to house the shadows without wasting space in my ever shrinking makeup case.

The Cons:

Pressed eye shadow palettes are never as budget-friendly as their loose shadow counterparts.  Ringing in at $35 the palette is still less expensive than major store brands, but may be too pricey for budget babes.  Unfortunately, it appears that once these palettes sell out, they won't be restocked.  I've yet to see a sale or promotional codes for Lime Crime, something I always hail indie brands for, but that is not to say they do not have them - just nothing I've come across.  

I'm having tons of fun with this palette, and it seems like that is the goal behind Lime Crime.  Regardless of their "politics" (for lack of a better term) the eye shadows are bold, bright and a great addition to any makeup collection.

FYI: Indie Nail Polish Decoded!

It bears repeating: I love indie brands.  What is an indie brand?  Quite simply an independent brand most people associate with small businesses.  It may be a one-person shop or a rather large sized operation, but they all offer unique and fun products that you won't find at your local drug store or supermarket.  Indie nail polish is a vast market where creativity knows no bounds and there is glitter galore in colors and shapes you never knew existed.  But sometimes it seems like those indie polish gals are speaking a totally different language.  So, what's it all about and what are you getting into?  Here are a few "translations" that may help you as you begin, or expand, your journey.

Common Terminology:

Jelly - This is a description of the consistency of the nail polish.  A jelly polish is, well, like jelly you spread on toast!  It is glassy and generally somewhat sheer; it takes several coats to get opaque coverage.  It is a great vehicle for floating tons of creatively shaped glitter.
 

Crelly - Pictured above, a combination of the terms "cream" and "jelly" = "crelly." It relates to the consistency of the polish.  Like a jelly polish, it is not entirely opaque and, in addition, is creamy or cloudy.  Crelly polishes can be glossy or matte but are all milky.

Holo - Short for "holographic," these polishes shimmer and shine like no other.  No thick or chunky glitters here, it's more of an overall sheen that shifts color in varying lighting.

Undies - Just a cute way of referring to a base coat (you know, the clear polish you may or may not put down first before your color of choice).

3-Free - There are potentially harmful chemicals in nail polish, a topic of debate that recently caused even big name brands to change their formulas.  3-free nail polish is formulated without Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), formaldehyde, and toluene. 

5-Free - Taking it a step further, 5-free nail polish nixes all the above, but also excludes camphor and formaldehyde resin.  Many 5-free polishes boast vegan and even pregnancy-safe formulas (be sure to check all labeling to be sure as these are not requirements, just nice bonuses).

Why Indie Nail Polish:

There are so many benefits to most any indie brands.  You're supporting small businesses and most all indie companies offer cruelty-free nail polish; many are vegan.  Because these small companies are all about the creativity of the maker, there are countless colors and styles of polish that are completely unique; everyone will be asking, "where did you get that nail polish?" These guys don't have the overhead of major brands either, so sales are abundant.  If a new collection is coming out or the maker wants to clear out some discontinued shades, you can save more than 50% off regular prices, which are already lower than store brands.  Ever wanted to design your very own nail polish?  Indie brands will often do custom orders!  That's right, you tell them exactly what you are looking for and they will design a nail polish for you.  Imagine what great gifts custom polishes would make, the possibilities are endless.

Where to Start:

If I've talked you into giving indie nail polish a shot, here are a few brands you must try!

Candied Apple Polish - 5-free polishes and tons of crellys!  This shop is particularly fun because the owner/maker of the polishes offers "Mystery Apples" - a surprise color you get to see when it gets to your mailbox.    

Rain City Lacquer - 3-free polishes for the pastel lover in you.  They ship internationally.

ella + mila - 5-free polishes in a wide range of shades if you're not big on glitter. There is a color for everyone here from brights to neutrals and they offer a "mommy and me" line with coordinating mother/daughter polishes.  Great for gifting.

CDB Lacquer - This is one of those shops that will do custom colors.  They offer polishes in three different sized bottles so you can choose just to sample, or go all out with a full size product. Some formulas are 3-free, others are 5-free.

drip drop nail paint - Often found teaming up with Candied Apple Polish for their popular duo collections, these 3-free polishes ship to the U.S. and Canada.  Drip drop also offers "prototype grab bags" where you can try a mystery assortment of one-of-a-kind polishes.

Review: Concrete Minerals

Lately I have been falling in love with loose eye shadow.  Although I find it more difficult to work with, the range of colors and formulas seems endless: a makeup lover's dream!  It allows for truly creative looks.  Couple all of that with skin-loving ingredients and you've got Concrete Minerals.  Founded in 2009, Concrete Minerals boasts a generous line of 56+ eye shadows, both matte and shimmer, and 14 lip tints.  CM is also 100% vegan, cruelty-free, gluten-free, fragrance-free, paraben-free, and made with pure pigments and ingredients without fillers.  

 

The above photo was shot without a flash but under artificial (indoor) lighting.  The swatches were done on dry skin without any primer or moisturizer.  The photo has not been retouched or edited/filtered in an attempt to capture the true colors.  Colors from top to bottom:  Deviant, Storm, Sweet Catrina, Brat, Blood and Guts, Black Metal

The top two colors (Deviant and Storm) were free samples included with my order of the other four, full-size shades.  Each pot contains approximately 1.5 grams of product.  Deviant and Storm are wonderfully wearable gray tones; Deviant has a shimmer while Storm is a lighter gray matte.  Sweet Catrina, the most flattering shade, is a gorgeous pink champagne color with hints of silver shimmer.  It is wonderful for blending or highlighting.  Brat is a must have for girls who love all things pink and girly: the perfect shade of shimmering magenta!  Blood and Guts is a curious shade of rusty brown with a very faint green shift/shimmer, definitely a conversation starter.  Finally, Black Metal is most accurately named.  It's a deep, dark black with a silver/gun metal shimmer that is ideal as a liner or for a sultry smoky eye. 

The above photo was taken in artificial (indoor) light, but hasn't been edited/filtered.  I used Brat, blending well, which proves that even a vibrant shade can be totally wearable for day or night.  I smudged Deviant along my lashes as a liner.

The above photo was taken in artificial (indoor) light, but hasn't been edited/filtered.  For a base shadow along the lid I used Sweet Catrina.  I used Storm for the crease and then topped it with Blood and Guts across the brow bone.  By dipping an eye liner brush in water or primer, Black Metal makes a gorgeous liner!

The Pros:

First off, these shadows are a steal for the price, just $7 per full-size pot.  Considering there is no talc or fillers, you're getting true, honest-to-goodness mineral shadows that even sensitive skinned beauties can use.  There are also various promos and coupon codes ongoing that make for an even better value.  If you want to discover a "just right" amount of shimmer, Concrete Minerals is it.  Even the brightest colors are completely flattering and shine in a "grown-up" way.  These shadows are versatile: use them dry as usual, or wet as a liner or for a more vivid look.  Lastly, the packaging is fun!  Their collectible tins will surely appeal to the consumer that craves cute and sexy on the outside.

The Cons:

To be fair, I always try to look at the ups and downs of products; however, it's difficult to complain about such a quality line.  As with any loose shadow, it can be difficult if you're used to pressed eye shadow - there's fall out during application and storage can be an issue.  With a little practice and a big plastic bin to store it all in, you'll easily avoid those minor concerns.

Overall, Concrete Minerals offers a fun and flattering line of products that are perfect for us health conscious consumers that want the total package.

Review: The Chequered Lily Apothecary

Handmade cosmetics are a wonderful way to support small business, avoid animal testing and find vegan friendly items.  Finding the cream of the crop can be tricky, but when you stumble upon a hidden gem, you know the search is worthwhile.  The Chequered Lily Apothecary, opened in 2011, offers various cosmetics, though I was focused on their 150+ eye shadow shades in various finishes and textures.  The pastry chef turned cosmetics creator touts cleanliness and ServSafe practices and labels everything to ensure you know what you're getting.

Of the countless shadows, I chose four; I was pleasantly surprised to find four complimentary samples in the pretty Alice in Wonderland-esque packaging.

The above swatches are the sample colors I received.  The picture was taken in natural light without a flash.  I do not Photoshop or filter any of the photos so as to properly represent the colors.  Additionally, these are swatched on bare skin - no primer or lotion.  The colors, from top to bottom:  #12 Snow, Glass, Apples, #64 Hyacinth, #10 Milky Way, #32 Seafoam.  #12 is perfect for a highlighter shade and brightens brow bones or the inner corner of the eyes.  There's a subtle shift in color from silvery white to pale blue and even green.  #64 is a princess perfect pastel purple.  #10 appears deep purple or gray depending on the lighting.  #32 is a surprisingly wearable pastel mint green to gold shift.

The colors I purchased from left to right: #128 Grimoire, #137 Midnight Show, #117 Moving On, #07 Caterpillar.  Each container holds 1 gram of product.  #128 is my favorite of the bunch.  Depending on how it is applied, tapped versus brushed or smudged, it can appear purple, magenta, brown or bronze.  It is gorgeous for a unique, smoky eye look.  #137 is a vivid dark purple, navy blue shift.  #117 cannot be photographed properly; this amazing, peachy gold color is so sparkly and is beautiful as a highlighter on cheekbones.  #07 is a pale gold, yellow, green that makes a fun base shade for any pastel look.

The Pros:

I am always pleased when handmade cosmetics are so meticulously made.  Allergy warnings, ingredients, uses - all labeled clearly.  In addition, vegan and non-vegan products are kept separate to avoid contamination.  The shades are all vivid and highly pigmented, offering great color payoff at just $6.50 per pot.  There are so many colors to choose from, you're bound to find something to your liking.

The Cons:

If you're not a fan of loose shadow and prefer pressed, you won't find it at The Chequered Lily.  The packaging doesn't allow for stacking (e.g. interlocking lids or bottoms) so it'll test your storage space.  The darker shades, namely #128 and #137 can cause a bit of staining on the skin, but are easily removed with makeup remover.

Beautiful, well made and affordable: Take a trip through the looking glass and see what The Chequered Lily Apothecary has for you.

FYI: 5 Common Animal By-Products You Didn't Know Were There

So, you're doing your part and checking your companies out to be sure you're buying cruelty-free products.  Hooray!  However, as you may have read (see my earlier post on cosmetics labeling issues) "cruelty-free" is not as all-inclusive as it seems.  Another concern plagues the cruelty-free beauty lover: hidden animal by-products.  Although listed in the ingredients, most of us don't know exactly what we're looking at.  We can't pronounce it, we've never heard of it, we don't know where it comes from - it seems quite daunting, then, to weed out what we don't want to put on our shopping lists.

This list is far from exhaustive, but should help get you familiar with common ingredients you may be staring down the next time you're reading your labels.  Oh, and speaking of labels, "naturally sourced" is another term you should become familiar with.  As with many other phrases that lack any legally enforced definition, be advised that "naturally sourced" ingredients does not mean plant derived or plant based. 

Carmine

What it is:  In a nut-shell, ground up insect bodies.  Carmine creates a red coloring and is used as a dye.  To create carmine, insect bodies are ground up and boiled to extract the carminic acid and various further chemical processes create color variations.

How to spot it:  Look for ingredients that read "crimson lake," "cochineal," or "natural red 4."

How to avoid it:  Back in 2006, the FDA considered requiring products that contained carmine to call it just that: carmine.  They were also considering requiring manufacturers to list that the product was insect-based.  Needless to say, that did not go over well and the FDA ultimately bailed on the potential requirement.  However, if you see "cochineal extract" or "carmine" listed, consider this code for insect-based.

Shellac

What it is:  More bugs!  It is actually an excretion of the female laccifer lacer bug and comes in various colors.  It is used in cosmetics and hair products to provide shine, such as in hair spray or nail polish.  If you're concerned about the environmental impact, The Vegetarian Resource Group estimates that 300,000 lac bugs are killed in the production of just 2.2 pounds worth of lac resin. 

How to spot it:  Look for additive number "E904," "resinous glaze," and "confectioner's glaze" (in food).

How to avoid it:  The ingredient "Zein" is a corn based alternative to shellac.  If you find shiny products like lipsticks, glosses, etc., check to see if the product is vegan (no animal by-product use) or see if the shine is derived from another source, such as "Zein."

Lanolin

What it is:  The word "lanolin" is actually from the Latin word "lāna" which means "wool" - "oleum" means "oily birth."  Put that all together and you get an oily substance secreted by the oil glands of sheep.  Although sheep are not usually killed to obtain the product, improper shearing of sheep has been the cause of death, disfigurement, pain and trauma in these animals.

How to spot it:  Lanolin is often listed as is: lanolin or lanolin oil.  However, look for "lanosterols," "triterpene," "lanogene," or "laneth."

How to avoid it:  Any time you see "sterols" listed, be wary of lanolin.  If the ingredients state "plant sterols" it is a good indication that the oily substance is coming from plants.  Since lanolin is generally used as an emollient, look for plant based oils like coconut oil and olive oil instead.

Guanine

What it is:  Used to create a shimmery effect, guanine is extracted from fish scales and is most commonly found in nail polish.  It's also used in eye shadows and skin care creams and serums. 

How to spot it:  Guanine, like lanolin, is labeled as is.  You may also see "hypoxanthine" or "2-aminohypoxanthine."

How to avoid it:  "Mica" is a common mineral used to create that glittery effect we all know and love.  "Bismuth" and "sericite" are other alternatives to look for when you see something shiny.  If you have a sensitivity to mica, seek out "titanium dioxide" or "zinc oxide" which are common substitutes.  Mica treated with "methicone" is another great way to avoid mica sensitivity AND guanine - win, win.

Apitoxin

What it is:  Ever been stung by a bee?  Then you have experienced the irritation and inflammation associated with apitoxin, or bee venom.  It is believed that apitoxin increases blood flow and creates a plumping effect, so it is used in various skin care products and lip balms/glosses designed to plump lips/skin.  The biggest concern for cruelty-free beauty lovers is that, once a bee stings, it dies.  Recent findings suggest that bees are already in serious trouble as their numbers decline from pesticide usage and declining habitats. 

How to spot it:  If it is apitoxin you're looking to avoid, watch out for "melittin," "apamin," and "adolapin."

How to avoid it:  Fortunately (or perhaps unfortunately, depending on how you look at it) the makers of "bee venom" cosmetics and products are proudly touting the ingredient.  Alternatives are easy to find, mostly herbs and spices that produce that tingly heat sensation: peppermint, cinnamon and menthol are all readily available.

Review: Eslor Soothing Refiner & Cleanser

When it comes to facial cleansers, I might as well be Goldilocks: I can never find the cleanser that is "just right."  I consider my skin combination dry, where my cheeks can stay dry and even flaky, yet I can end up with an oil slick across my forehead.  For me, the perfect cleanser has to remove makeup, suck up the oil so I FEEL the clean, but prevent the tightness and dryness you can often get when you rinse.  Some cleansers left my skin feeling greasy, others left my skin dry and visibly tight. 

Once upon a time, there was Eslor skin care.  Created by a pharmacologist for his wife who, like me, was seeking a natural skin care line, Eslor offers aloe based products for various skin needs.  If you've checked the labels on your cleanser, you'll probably find a plethora of ingredients.  However, Eslor is being praised for what is NOT in it.  Instead of harsh cleansers like sodium lauryl sulfate, there is almond meal, earth kaolin and seaweed extract which help suck up dirt while leaving skin moisturized.  Eslor's Soothing Refiner and Cleanser draws out impurities while cleaning surface dirt away.  Aloe soothes red, irritated skin while glycerin and hops are natural moisturizers.  With only a handful of ingredients, this cleanser proves less is more.

The Pros:

Finally! I've discovered the perfect balance; my face feels clean yet very soft.  Even without immediately applying a moisturizer, this low foaming gel is a combination cleanser and toner in one step.  I've noticed my skin is smoother after about a week of use, too. There's no fragrance or dyes, so this could be an excellent option for sensitive skin.  In addition, there are no harsh cleansers, no parabens, no sodium lauryl sulfate and no sodium lauryl ethel sulfate (both rough cleansing agents.)  This is the first cleanser I have found that has actually improved my skin without any additional product use!

The Cons:

At $32 for a 2 ounce bottle, it isn't a budget-friendly option for some.  It cleans well, but may not offer enough oil control throughout the day for individuals with particularly oily skin.  Finally, because this cleanser is designed to draw out dirt and oil deep within your pores, you may notice a pimple or two in your first week or so of use.  (This is common with face masks and products with kaolin clay, which is a natural detoxifying agent that may bring impurities to the surface.)

This truly is a high quality cleanser and I can only imagine how effective it would be combined with Eslor's other skin care products.  You can receive free samples with purchase on the Eslor website and as a bonus, there are men's skin care products as well.  It's worth a look.

Tutorial: Peach and Gold Look

Saying goodbye to Spring can be difficult - heat and humidity are up, cool, crisp evenings are down.  What to do with all of those pretty pastels you stocked up on for Spring?  Try this makeup look in peach and gold that is perfect for a daytime look.  This quick tutorial is just 5 steps, so it's a great time saver!  Give it a try today!  I'd love to see your finished looks, so please send photos to me to be featured on the blog: BenevolentBeautyBlog@gmail.com

Enjoy!

All Systems Go!

Coming soon you'll be privy to some fantastic new reviews, color swatches, tutorials and more on beauty brands you'll be craving in no time.  Did you know that PETA offers a search engine for glam gals and guys to discover cruelty-free brands?  Know what you're buying before you get it home:

PETA's Search for Cruelty-Free Cosmetics